Driveway & Patio Preparation: The First Step

Pressure washing removes the old jointing sand. If you apply a sealer to empty joints, the liquid will simply flow down into the sub-base and be wasted. You must sweep fresh Kiln-Dried Sand into the joints first. The sealer then soaks into this new sand, hardening it (sand binding) to lock the blocks in place and stop weeds.

No. Sealing creates a barrier against new weeds, but it will not kill deep-rooted weeds already there. If you seal over live weeds, they will grow right through the coating. You must use a strong biocide and remove all organic growth as part of your prep work.

No. The sand and the blocks must be bone dry. If there is moisture in the sand, the sealer cannot penetrate to bind it. Worse, trapped moisture will turn white (bloom) under the sealer. We recommend waiting at least 2-3 dry days after cleaning before sanding and sealing.

No. That whiteness ("blooming") is moisture trapped under the old sealer. If you seal over it, you seal the problem in forever. You must first use a solvent (Xylene) to "melt" the old sealer and release the moisture. Once the concrete is clear again, you can apply the new sealer.

Rarely. As long as the surface isn't flaking extensively, our solvent-based sealers are designed to bond chemically with the previous layer. You only need to strip the driveway if the old sealer has failed completely or if you are switching sealer types.

Imprinted concrete sealers are glossy by nature. During the preparation stage, you should plan to mix an "Anti-Slip Additive" into the final coat. This adds a fine texture that improves grip in wet weather without dulling the shine.

Acid reacts with the calcium in natural stone (especially Limestone and Black Limestone), causing it to fizz and fade instantly. This damage is permanent. You must use pH-neutral cleaners or Sodium Hypochlorite solutions to clean the stone safely before sealing.

We wouldn't recommend it. Those black spots are lichen rooted into the stone. If you seal now, you lock them in, and they will continue to grow and ruin the look of the patio. You must use a "Black Spot Remover" to chemically kill the roots before applying an impregnating sealer.

Extremely dry. Impregnators work by filling the capillaries (pores) of the stone. If those pores are full of water, the sealer can't get in. Test the stone with a moisture meter or by taping down a plastic sheet overnight to ensure no damp rises before you seal.

No. Tarmac is held together by bitumen, which dissolves in solvents (like petrol or thinners). If you use a harsh solvent cleaner, you will dissolve your driveway. Use a dedicated "Bio-Degreaser" to break down the oil safely before applying a restorer.

A sealer/restorer will help bind loose stones, but it cannot fill holes. If your tarmac is heavily fretting (loose gravel), you need to sweep away the loose material and potentially use a "Cold Lay" repair product to patch the worst areas before you apply the final colour coating.

You can remove the visible moss with water, but be very careful not to use high pressure that rips up the surface stones. Crucially, water won't kill the spores hiding deep in the textured crevices. You should apply a dedicated Moss Killer or Biocide after cleaning and let it dry. If you don't kill the roots chemically, the moss will grow back quickly, potentially lifting or damaging your new coating.

New or smooth concrete has a layer called "laitance" (weak cement dust). Paints and sealers stick to this dust rather than the concrete itself. Acid etching dissolves this layer and roughens the surface (like sandpaper), allowing the paint to grip firmly.

No. Concrete expands and contracts. If you paint over a crack, the movement will snap the paint open. You must clean out the cracks and fill them with a repair mortar or flexible filler. Once smoothed and dried, you can then paint over the repair for a seamless finish.

No. Moisture rising from the ground creates "hydrostatic pressure" which pushes the paint off the surface, causing bubbles and flaking. You must perform a moisture test (tape plastic to the floor for 24 hours) to ensure the concrete is dry enough for the paint to adhere.