Frequently Asked Questions

Everest Paints is our main decorative and trade coatings brand, while EverFlor focuses on high-performance floor systems and SummitSeal specialises in sealers for stone, patios, driveways and exterior substrates. All three are manufactured in the UK under Jarvis Industries Limited, ensuring consistent quality, fast lead times and full control over formulation.

Yes. Every coating we produce — from floor epoxies to driveway sealers — is manufactured in our Tuxford, Nottinghamshire facility. Local production means tighter quality control, fresher stock, and rapid batch turnaround for trade customers.

Yes, trade accounts are available for contractors, installers, resellers, and commercial customers. Trade accounts offer improved pricing, dedicated support and credit terms (subject to approval). You can apply through our Trade Portal or contact our sales team for help

Our technical support team is available Monday–Friday via phone, email, or live chat. We can advise on surface preparation, product selection, application conditions, troubleshooting, and system recommendations specific to your project.

For many systems, yes. We offer tinting into a wide range of RAL and BS colours for selected floor paints, masonry paints and cladding coatings. Availability varies depending on product chemistry — please check the product page or contact our team for confirmation.

Our Product Finder tool and Help & Advice library guide you through selecting the right coating for floors, walls, roofs, cladding, patios and driveways. If you prefer 1-to-1 assistance, our technical team can recommend the correct system based on substrate, condition, environment and expected load.

Many of our coatings are DIY-friendly, particularly masonry paints, driveway sealers and 1K systems. Higher-performance products such as 2K epoxies and industrial coatings require more precise preparation and mixing, but can still be applied by competent homeowners following our guides.

Yes. All products are backed by our quality guarantee and manufactured to industry standards. If you have a problem with adhesion, performance, or batch consistency, our team will work with you to diagnose the issue and offer the appropriate solution or replacement.

Absolutely — many of our coatings are designed specifically for heavy-duty environments such as warehouses, workshops, car parks, factories and commercial buildings. Look for the “Industrial Grade” badge on qualifying products or ask our technical team for system advice.

Yes. Our products comply with UK VOC regulations, UKCA requirements (where applicable), and industry standards for performance and safety. SDS and TDS documents are available for download on every product page.

Orders placed before 10am are usually dispatched the same working day. Orders placed after 10am will dispatch on the next working day. All products are shipped directly from our facility in Tuxford, Nottinghamshire for fast turnaround and fresh stock.

Yes. We offer Next Working Day delivery for £14.95 per item. When ordering before 10am, next-day shipments typically arrive the following working day. Orders placed after the cutoff will dispatch the next day and be delivered the day after.

Standard delivery takes 2–3 working days and is charged at £9.95 per item. This is available for most paint, sealer and coating products that are not classed as hazardous.

Yes — we use approved DG/ADR transport for hazardous materials such as solvent-based or 2-part coatings. This ensures safe handling and compliance with UK transport regulations. Delivery times may vary slightly depending on carrier requirements.

Large or heavy orders may be sent via pallet delivery, typically £80+ VAT, depending on location. Remote areas, Scotland and offshore regions may incur additional charges. Our team will always confirm pallet rates before dispatch.

Yes — collection from our Tuxford, Nottinghamshire site is available. Simply select ‘Collection’ at checkout and we’ll notify you when your order is ready to pick up.

Yes — if you need timed delivery, tail-lift, forklift-only access, site contact coordination or other specific instructions, our logistics team can help. Contact us before ordering and we’ll arrange the best solution.

You’ll receive a tracking link by email as soon as your parcel or pallet leaves our warehouse. If you have a trade account, tracking updates will also appear in your portal.

If your order arrives damaged, dented or leaking, contact us immediately with photos of the issue. We’ll arrange a replacement or refund and handle the claim with the courier.

Yes — delivery is available to most regions, but surcharges or extended transit times may apply. Pallet deliveries to these areas may require a custom quote. Contact our team for clarification before ordering if needed.

We accept returns on unopened, unused products within 30 days of delivery. If the return is due to a customer change of mind, incorrect ordering, or simply disliking the colour, the customer is responsible for the return postage and a £10 restocking fee per returned order. Once received and inspected, we’ll issue a refund minus these costs.

You can return untinted, unopened products, but you will need to cover return shipping and a £10 restocking fee per order.

Tinted, colour-matched and mixed-to-order items cannot be refunded as they are made specifically for your order.

No — products that are tinted, colour-matched or mixed to order are non-returnable. These items are manufactured specifically for you and cannot be resold, so please double-check colours before ordering.

If your order arrives damaged, dented or leaking, contact us immediately with photos. We will replace the item or issue a full refund, and you will not be charged for return shipping or restocking.

Yes. If the return is due to customer error (wrong item ordered, unwanted product, colour preference), the customer covers return postage and a £10 restocking fee per order.

If the error is ours, return costs are fully covered.

Yes. All Everest Paints, EverFlor and SummitSeal products are manufactured in our Tuxford, Nottinghamshire facility to strict quality standards. If you experience a genuine performance issue, our technical team will investigate the cause and arrange a solution or replacement as appropriate.

Yes — exchanges are possible for unopened, untinted items. Return postage and the £10 restocking fee apply unless we made an error. Once we receive the original item, we’ll send the replacement.

Refunds are typically processed within 3–5 working days once the returned item reaches our warehouse. Your bank or payment provider may take additional time to finalise the transaction.

Our guarantee does not cover issues caused by:

• incorrect surface preparation
  
• applying the wrong product for the substrate
  
• contamination, moisture or oil
  
• application outside recommended temperature/weather ranges
  
• incorrect mixing ratios for 2K systems
  

If unsure, our technical team can advise before you buy.

No. Opened or partially used products cannot be returned for safety, contamination and quality reasons.

1K (single-pack) coatings are ready to use straight from the tin and are ideal for light to medium-duty projects.

2K (two-pack) coatings require mixing Part A and Part B before use and offer far higher durability, chemical resistance and longevity.

Most industrial floors, workshops and commercial environments benefit from a 2K system.

Preparation depends on the substrate, but the goal is always the same: clean, dry, sound and lightly porous.

Typical steps include degreasing, mechanical abrasion, repairing defects, and ensuring the surface is dust-free.

Full preparation guides are available for floors, walls, roofs, cladding, patios and driveways.

Most coatings have a minimum application temperature of 5–10°C.

Cold conditions slow curing and can affect adhesion, gloss and hardness.

For winter use, we offer cold-cure epoxies which perform reliably at lower temperatures. Always check the product’s TDS before application.

Typical recoat times range from 4–24 hours depending on the product, temperature and humidity.

2K epoxies and polyurethanes often have a defined recoat window — applying too early or too late may affect adhesion.

Always follow the timings stated on the product page or TDS.

Yes — but only if the existing coating is sound, well-bonded, and compatible.

Glossy or unknown coatings should be abraded for a mechanical key, and flaking or soft coatings should be fully removed.

If unsure, contact our technical team or carry out a small adhesion test.

Pot life is the amount of workable time you have after mixing a 2K coating.

Once pot life is exceeded, the mixture thickens, heats or gels internally and should not be applied.

Warmer temperatures reduce pot life significantly — always mix small batches in hot weather.

Coverage is shown on each product page and varies with substrate porosity and coating thickness.

As a rule of thumb:

• Smooth surfaces require less product
  
• Porous or textured surfaces require more
  

When in doubt, use the coverage calculator or ask our team for a project-specific estimate.

Yes, but only if you mix by weight or by resin-to-hardener ratio as stated in the TDS.

Never “guess” partial mixes — incorrect ratios lead to soft curing, poor adhesion or complete coating failure.

Foot traffic is typically possible after 12–24 hours.

Vehicle traffic varies by system:

• 1K paints: 2–7 days
  
• 2K epoxies: 3–7 days
  
• 2K polyurethanes: 24–72 hours
  
  

Temperature affects curing — colder conditions lengthen these times.

Yes. Moisture is one of the most common causes of coating failure.

Floors must be dry, and moisture-sensitive products should not be applied to substrates with rising damp or trapped moisture.

We offer damp-tolerant primers and epoxies for specific situations — ask our technical team if unsure.

Not always.

Primers are recommended when:

• The substrate is porous or weak
  
• You need to improve adhesion
  
• You’re using a high-build or specialist topcoat
  
• Moisture tolerance is required
  

Product pages clearly state whether a primer is required.

Many coatings can be sprayed with the correct equipment (airless, HVLP or conventional).

However, 2K epoxies and thick materials often require specific tip sizes and safety precautions (PPE, ventilation, respirators).

If spraying, always check the TDS or ask us for guidance.

It depends on the surface and how it will be used:

• Garages / home workshops:
  
  EverFlor EnduraCoat Epoxy, EverFlor 1K Floor Paint
  
• Industrial floors, warehouses, forklifts:
  
  EverFlor EnduraCoat Epoxy, EverFlor ChemResist Epoxy, EverFlor PU Satin / Gloss
  
• Cold or damp areas:
  
  EverFlor Cold Cure Epoxy
  
• Outdoor or general use on concrete:
  
  EverFlor 1K Acrylic Floor Paint
  
• Anti-slip areas:
  
  EverFlor Anti-Slip Additive (fine, medium or coarse) added to the chosen coating
  
• Line marking:
  
  EverFlor Line Marking Paint or EverFlor Rapid Line Marking (fast cure)
  

If unsure, our technical team can recommend a system based on traffic, temperature and substrate condition.

• 1K (single-pack):
  
  Easy to apply, good for light-medium duty floors, garages and general areas.
  
• 2K (two-pack epoxies):
  
  Far stronger, chemical-resistant and longer lasting.
  
  Ideal for warehouses, workshops, machinery areas, loading bays and commercial settings.
  

Epoxies are always the best choice where durability matters.

Absolutely — most EverFlor products are designed specifically for concrete.

However, the surface must be:

• clean
  
• dry
  
• sound
  
• correctly prepared
  

Most concrete benefits from a primer such as:

• EverFlor Prime OT (oil-tolerant)
  
• EverFlor Prime DT (damp-tolerant)
  
• EverFlor Prime DP (deep penetrating)
  

Priming improves adhesion and reduces product consumption.

Approximate cure times:

• 1K Acrylic Floor Paint:
  
  Light vehicles after 3–5 days
  
• 2K HB Epoxy:
  
  Vehicles after 48–72 hours
  
• Cold Cure Epoxy:
  
  Vehicles after 24–36 hours (temperature dependent)
  

Full chemical cure may take up to 7 days for all systems.

Yes — but only with the correct system.

Use EverFlor Prime OT (Oil Tolerant) primer first.

It’s designed to adhere to previously oil-contaminated concrete after degreasing.

Epoxy should not be applied directly to oily substrates without this step.

Standard epoxies cannot.

For damp or newly-laid concrete, use:

• EverFlor Prime DT
  
• EverFlor Cold Cure Epoxy
  

These are moisture-tolerant systems that cure safely in less-than-ideal conditions.

New, smooth or power-floated concrete usually requires mechanical grinding or acid etching to create a key.

Older concrete normally benefits from:

• degreasing
  
• repairing cracks or holes
  
• vacuuming dust
  
• priming
  

Strong adhesion always comes from correct preparation.

Yes, if:

• the existing coating is sound
  
• well-bonded
  
• abraded to remove gloss
  
• compatible
  

Unknown coatings should be lightly ground or adhesion-tested.

If the old coating is soft, peeling or bitumen-based, it must be fully removed.

For most EverFlor systems:

• 1K Acrylic Floor Paint: 2 coats
  
• 2K Epoxy HB: 1 primer + 1 heavy topcoat
  
• Cold Cure Epoxy: 1 primer + 1 topcoat
  
• PU Sealers: 1–2 coats depending on gloss level
  

Highly porous floors may require additional primer.

Yes — but only specific systems.

Suitable outdoors:

• EverFlor 1K Acrylic Floor Paint
  
• EverFlor Line Marking
  
• EverFlor PU Sealer (UV stable)
  

Not suitable outdoors:

• Standard HB Epoxy (will chalk under UV exposure)

Typical coverage rates:

• 1K Floor Paint: 8–10 m² per litre
  
• HB Epoxy: 4–6 m² per kg
  
• Primers: 6–10 m² per litre
  
• PU Sealer: 8–12 m² per litre
  

Rough or porous concrete reduces coverage significantly.

Yes — EverFlor Anti-Slip Additives can be:

• mixed into the coating
  
• or broadcast and over-coated for a more aggressive finish
  

Available grades: fine, medium, coarse.

Best used with epoxies for maximum durability.

Yes, but you must:

• weigh accurately
  
• follow the correct mix ratio on the label or TDS
  
• mix thoroughly, scraping sides and bottom
  
• never guess
  

Incorrect ratios cause soft patches or failed curing.

Most EverFlor epoxies have:

• 20–40 minutes pot life at 20°C
  
• Shorter in warm weather
  
• Longer in cooler conditions
  

Only mix what you can apply in time.

Some can, but epoxies are generally designed for roller and brush application.

If spraying, you’ll need:

• correct PPE (respirator essential)
  
• the right tip size
  
• knowledge of atomising 2K systems
  

Roller remains the simplest, safest and most reliable method.

It depends on the surface type and the finish you want. Here’s how to choose the right product from the SummitSeal and EverFlor ranges:

Block Paving

Best options:

• Solvent-Based Block Paving Sealer (Matt or Satin)
  
  Hard-wearing, excellent joint stabilisation, strongest colour enhancement.
  
• Water-Based Block Paving Sealer
  
  Available in Dry Finish, Colour Enhancer, or Wet Look.
  
  Great for low-odour application and areas where solvent use is restricted.
  

Tarmac & Asphalt

• SummitSeal Tarmac Restorer
  
  Restores faded driveways, binds and rejuvenates the surface.
  
• EverFlor AsphaltCoat
  
  Industrial-grade coating for heavy-use areas or commercial sites.
  

Stone Patios (Indian Sandstone, Limestone, Porcelain, Slate, etc.)

Use SummitSeal Stone Sealer, available in three finishes:

• Dry Finish (Natural Look) — preserves natural colour
  
• Colour Enhancer — enriches tones without gloss
  
• Wet Look — deeper, richer finish
  

Perfect for patios, pool surrounds, and decorative stone.

Imprinted or Patterned Concrete

Use the dedicated SummitSeal Imprinted Concrete Sealer, available in:

• Solvent-Based: Matt or Satin
  
• Water-Based: Dry, Colour Enhancer, or Wet Look
  
  Ideal for driveways, decorative concrete, and stamped patios.
  

High-Traffic or Heavy-Duty Areas

Choose a PU Sealer (Polyurethane)

• Always Wet Look
  
• Maximum durability, chemical resistance and abrasion resistance
  
• Ideal for commercial areas, vehicles, or frequent cleaning
  

Cracks, Repairs & Surface Prepping

Before sealing, you may need:

• Crack repair compounds
  
• Jointing sand replacement
  
• Cleaning / degreasing products
  

Correct preparation ensures the sealer bonds properly and performs long-term.

Generally, no — sealing should only be done on dry surfaces.

Moisture trapped under a sealer can cause whitening, peeling or reduced durability.

Exceptions:

• Some water-based sealers tolerate slightly damp surfaces.
  
  

Always check the TDS for minimum moisture requirements.

A minimum of 24–48 hours, depending on temperature and porosity.

Porous block paving and sandstone may require up to 72 hours.

Warm, breezy weather speeds up drying. Cold, shaded areas take longer.

Yes — solvent-based block paving sealers help:

• bind jointing sand
  
• reduce weed regrowth
  
• minimise algae buildup
  

However, no sealer permanently stops weeds. Proper jointing and maintenance are still required.

It depends on the product:

• Solvent-based sealers: Slight colour enhancement (“wet look”), especially on block paving and imprinted concrete.
  
• Water-based sealers: More natural, matte finish.
  
• Stone sealers: Can deepen tones on sandstone or slate depending on porosity.
  

Always patch test if colour change is a concern.

Typical durability:

• Block paving sealer: 2–4 years
  
• Tarmac restorer: 2–3 years
  
• Stone sealers: 3–5 years (varies by porosity)
  
• Imprinted concrete: 2–3 years (more in sheltered areas)
  

High-traffic or exposed areas may need topping up sooner.

Yes — if the joints have washed out.

Use sharp sand and brush it into the joints so they’re fully filled before sealing.

This helps stabilise the paving and improves the finished appearance.

Best applied between 10°C and 25°C.

Below 8–10°C:

• curing slows dramatically
  
• solvent-based sealers may bloom
  
• risk of whitening increases
  

Avoid sealing during frost, rain or when rain is forecast within 4–6 hours.

Yes — but only if the previous coating is:

• sound
  
• not flaking
  
• compatible with the new product
  

If a previous sealer is peeling or unknown, a small patch test is essential.

Typical times:

• Foot traffic: 3–6 hours
  
• Vehicular traffic: 24–48 hours
  
• Full cure: 3–5 days
  

Cooler temperatures extend drying time.

Sealing significantly reduces staining by creating a protective barrier.

Stone sealers, in particular, provide strong resistance to:

• grease
  
• oil
  
• wine
  
• BBQ residue
  
• algae
  

But no sealer makes surfaces completely stain-proof.

All three can be used:

• Roller: Most common; gives an even finish.
  
• Brush: Good for edges and small areas.
  
• Sprayer: Fastest method but requires solvent-resistant equipment for solvent-based sealers.
  

Never use garden sprayers with solvents — they melt.

Whitening is normally caused by moisture.

Fix options:

• apply a light coat of solvent-based sealer to re-dissolve the top layer
  
• allow the surface to fully dry and re-coat
  
• remove affected areas with solvent wash
  

Our team can advise the best method based on the sealer used.

Typical coverage:

• Block paving: 3–5 m² per litre
  
• Tarmac: 4–6 m² per litre
  
• Stone: 6–10 m² per litre
  
• Imprinted concrete: 4–6 m² per litre
  

Highly porous surfaces may need additional coats.

Yes — you can add anti-slip aggregates to the final coat, just make sure the compatible with clear coatings, like our Clear Anti-Slip Additive.

This is useful for:

• sloped driveways
  
• swimming pool surrounds
  
• sandstone patios
  
• high-traffic outdoor areas
  

Medium-to-coarse grades provide the best grip outdoors.

Choosing the right coating depends on the substrate:

Masonry Walls (Homes & Commercial Buildings)

• Everest Trade Masonry Paint — high-cover, weather-resistant
  
• Best for: render, brickwork, blockwork, exterior walls
  

Barns, Sheds & Agricultural Buildings

• Everest Barn Paint — water-based acrylic, flexible, great adhesion
  
• Designed for: timber, metal, concrete, fibre cement
  

Metal or Plastisol-Coated Cladding

• Everest Cladding Paint (Solvent-Based) — stronger bonding, harder finish
  
• Everest Cladding Paint (Water-Based) — lower odour, easier application
  
• Suitable for: steel cladding, plastisol, aluminium, industrial units
  

UPVC & Trim Surfaces

• Everest Multi-Surface Primer + a cladding or trim topcoat
  
• For windows, doors, fascia, soffits
  

Roofs (Asphalt, Felt, Slate, Metal)

• Everest Roof Coat / Acrylic Roof Paint — breathable, weatherproof
  
• Ideal for slate, concrete tiles, aged felt or flat roofs
  

If unsure, our technical team can match a full system to your building type and condition.

Yes — if the existing coating is sound and well bonded.

Before recoating:

• Wash down the surface
  
• Abrade glossy surfaces
  
• Remove flaking or chalky paint
  
• Apply a stabiliser if the wall is powdery
  
• Use appropriate primers for metal or plastisol cladding
  

If the old coating is unknown or failing, a test patch is recommended.

Good prep ensures long-term durability. Typical steps include:

• Pressure wash to remove dirt and algae
  
• Treat mould or moss
  
• Scrape flaking paint
  
• Repair cracks
  
• Use Everest Masonry Stabiliser on chalky or weak areas
  
• Ensure the surface is dry before painting
  

Porous render may need two full coats for uniform colour and protection.

Most water-based paints require:

• Minimum 8–10°C surface temperature
  
• Dry weather for 4–6 hours after application
  

Solvent-based cladding paints are more temperature-tolerant but still shouldn’t be applied in frost or high humidity.

Avoid painting:

• early morning dew
  
• late evening cooling
  
• when rain is forecast
  

Cold-cure options are available for certain systems if required.

Water-Based Cladding Paint

• Low odour
  
• Fast drying
  
• Eco-friendly
  
• Ideal for occupied buildings
  
• Great for maintenance repaints
  

Solvent-Based Cladding Paint

• Stronger adhesion to older or chalky plastisol
  
• Smoother flow and higher durability
  
• Better corrosion resistance on metal
  

If the substrate is aged plastisol, oxidised, or exposed to harsh weather, solvent-based is often the best choice.

Not always — but in certain cases primers are essential:

• Bare metal: requires an anti-corrosive primer
  
• Plastisol or PVC surfaces: adhesion primer recommended
  
• Chalky masonry: stabiliser required
  
• UPVC: MUST be primed for proper bonding
  
• Bitumen roofs: compatible primer improves sealing
  

Your product pages will state whether a primer is required for that specific surface.

Yes — Everest masonry coatings are suitable for:

• smooth render
  
• roughcast
  
• pebble dash
• blockwork
  
• old painted surfaces (sound condition)
  

Rough surfaces may require extra paint to achieve even coverage.

No — roofs need coatings designed for:

• standing water
  
• thermal movement
  
• higher UV exposure
  
• weathering extremes
  

Use Everest Roof Paint, not masonry paint, for tiles, slate, felt or metal roofing.

Typical durability:

• Masonry Paint: 8–12 years
  
• Barn Paint: 5–10 years (depends on substrate)
  
• Cladding Paint: 8–12 years
  
• Roof Coatings: 5–8 years
  

Exposure, colour choice, and weather conditions affect lifespan.

Yes — many Everest coatings can be applied by airless sprayer.

Spraying is ideal for:

• large industrial cladding units
  
• barns and agricultural buildings
  
• roof tiles
  
• large rendered walls
  

Use correct tip sizes and always follow safety precautions.

Typical safe times:

• Water-Based Masonry & Barn Paint: 2–4 hours
  
• Solvent-Based Cladding Paint: 1–2 hours
  
• Roof Coatings: minimum 4 hours, longer in cold conditions
  

Wind, shade and humidity all affect drying.

Paint alone cannot fix rising damp, trapped moisture or leaks.

However:

• Everest Masonry Paint improves weather resistance
  
• Stabiliser helps bind powdery surfaces
  
• Breathable coatings allow moisture to escape
  

Structural damp issues must be resolved before coating.

For cladding, barn paints and many commercial coatings — yes, depending on base system.

We match against:

• RAL
  
• BS
  
• Popular architectural colours
  

Custom colours may have minimum order quantities depending on the product.

Your choice depends on the environment:

For Industrial Line Marking

• EpoxyMark (2K Water-Based Epoxy) → Highest durability indoors, forklift routes & long-term safety zones
  
• StepMark (Solvent-Based Epoxy) → Tougher chemical/abrasion resistance, faster dry
  
• RoadMark (Chlorinated Rubber) → Rapid-dry, best for outdoor markings & car parks
  
• TrafficMark (1K Water-Based) → Light/medium-duty indoor markings
  
• Tennis Court Line Paint → For sports areas on porous macadam
  
• Tarmac Line Paint → For domestic driveways after Driveway Restorer
  

For Safety Flooring (Anti-Slip Zones)

• TractionCoat (Broadcast System) → Maximum grip, ramps, wet zones
  
• SafetyTread (Pre-Mixed Anti-Slip) → Medium–high grip, easy application
  
• TouchGrip (Aluminium Oxide) → Extremely tough, forklift areas
  
• Anti-Slip Variants of Standard Paints → Light–medium grip for general areas
  

For Hygiene-Sensitive Areas

• Hygienic Water-Based Epoxy → Seamless, easy-clean, suitable for kitchens & food prep
  

One category, one purpose: safer floors, clearer markings, reduced risk.

All are anti-slip systems, but with different performance levels:

• TractionCoat: Broadcast aggregate → maximum slip resistance (industrial ramps, wet areas)
  
• SafetyTread: Pre-mixed additive → consistent medium/high grip, simple roller application
  
• TouchGrip: Aluminium oxide → toughest surface, withstands forklifts & machinery
  

Anti-slip versions of standard floor paints → lighter grip for everyday safety areas.

Yes — but choose based on durability:

• Best: EpoxyMark, StepMark
  
• Outdoor: RoadMark
  
• Light-duty: TrafficMark
  
• Driveways & domestic: Tarmac Line Paint
  

Forklift wheels plus turning stress = use epoxy where possible.

Absolutely.

Your range is designed to mix and match:

Example systems:

• EpoxyMark lines + TractionCoat anti-slip ramps
  
• StepMark hatchings + TouchGrip for high-wear edges
  
• Hygienic epoxy + fine anti-slip in food prep routes
  
• RoadMark bay markings + Tarmac anti-slip lines in driveways
  

Everything works as a modular safety suite.

Often yes, depending on floor condition:

• Prime OT → oily floors
  
• Prime DT → damp-tolerant
  
• Prime DP → porous, dusty or weak substrates
  

Proper priming greatly increases adhesion and lifespan.

Approximate cure times at 20°C:

Line Marking:

• RoadMark → 10–20 mins
  
• StepMark → 20–40 mins
  
• TrafficMark → 20–40 mins
  
• EpoxyMark → Walkable 6–12 hrs
  

Anti-Slip Products:

• SafetyTread → 4–8 hrs
  
• TouchGrip → 8–12 hrs
  
• TractionCoat → 12–24 hrs depending on aggregate
  

Hygienic Epoxy:

• Touch dry 1–3 hrs
  
• Light use 12–18 hrs
  

Cold conditions extend all cure times.

Yes — especially:

• RoadMark (best for external)
  
• Tarmac Line Paint
  
• TractionCoat & TouchGrip (excellent outdoors)
  
• StepMark (suitable outdoors)
  

TrafficMark & EpoxyMark → outdoors only in warm, dry conditions.

Typical durability:

• EpoxyMark: 2–5+ years
  
• StepMark: 2–4 years
  
• RoadMark: 1–3 years outdoors
  
• TrafficMark: 6–18 months
  
• TractionCoat: 3–7 years
  
• TouchGrip: 3–6 years
  
• SafetyTread: 2–4 years
  
• Hygienic Epoxy: 3–5 years depending on cleaning chemicals
  

Heavy forklift turning is the main wear factor.

Yes — in two ways:

• Mix fine anti-slip additive into the paint
  
• Broadcast a fine grit over the wet line marking
  

This is ideal for:

• ramps
  
• loading bays
  
• wet areas
  
• outdoor lines
  
• pedestrian crossings

Simple guide:

• Maximum grip: TractionCoat (broadcast)
  
• Industrial heavy wear: TouchGrip
  
• General commercial: SafetyTread
  
• Domestic/light: Anti-slip paint variants
  
• Food-safe: Hygienic epoxy + fine grit

Yes — use:

• Hygienic Water-Based Epoxy
  
• Add fine anti-slip additive if required
  
• Ensure surface remains cleanable and sanitisation-friendly

• RoadMark, StepMark, TrafficMark → spray-friendly
  
• EpoxyMark → roller recommended (can be sprayed by trained applicators)
  
• Anti-slip systems → typically roller-only
  
• Hygienic epoxy → brush/roller
  

Spraying over aggregates is not recommended.

Yes — all safety products integrate visually and functionally:

• Line marking → navigation
  
• Anti-slip → reduced slip risk
  
• Hygienic systems → cleanable safety zones
  

Colours can be matched to RAL/BS or your site’s safety standard.

Yes — especially:

• EpoxyMark
  
• StepMark
  
• TouchGrip
  
• Hygienic WB Epoxy
  

RoadMark and TrafficMark have moderate chemical resistance.

• TractionCoat (Coarse) → highest grip
• TouchGrip → best for heavy wear on metal/industrial steps
  
• SafetyTread → easier application for general steps
  
• EpoxyMark with anti-slip → forklift ramps

Pot life is the amount of workable time a 2K product has once Part A and Part B are mixed.

After pot life expires:

• viscosity rises
  
• chemical reaction accelerates
  
• the product may gel or harden in the bucket
  
• adhesion and curing performance drop significantly
  

Temperature dramatically affects pot life:

Higher temperature → shorter pot life, faster cure.

Lower temperature → longer pot life, slower cure.

Never apply a product after its pot life has ended, even if it “looks OK”.

The ratio ensures the correct stoichiometry (the chemical balance between resin and hardener).

Incorrect ratios cause:

• soft or undercured patches
  
• brittleness
  
• poor adhesion
  
• reduced chemical/abrasion resistance
  
• discolouration
  

Accuracy matters.

For partial mixes, always weigh out the correct ratio — never eyeball it.

These are different phases:

• Touch Dry: Surface feels dry but film is still very weak.
  
• Walkable / Light Use: Safe for foot traffic, but coating is still developing hardness.
  
• Full Cure: Maximum chemical, mechanical and abrasion resistance achieved.
  

Every coating reaches these stages at different times depending on:

• formulation (1K vs 2K)
  
• temperature
  
• humidity
  
• film thickness
  

Full cure may take 3–7 days, even if walkable in hours.

Coatings are chemical reactions.

Lower temperatures slow the reaction → slower cure, lower gloss, risk of amine blush (epoxies).

Higher temperatures accelerate the reaction → shorter pot life, higher gloss, faster drying.

The ideal application range is typically 10–25°C unless using cold-cure products.

A waxy or greasy film that forms when epoxies cure in cool, humid or damp conditions.

It can interfere with adhesion of subsequent coats.

If blush occurs:

• wash with warm water and detergent
  
• lightly abrade
  
• allow to fully dry
  
• recoat
  

Cold, humid environments are the main cause.

A recoat window defines when a second coat can safely be applied:

• Too early: solvent entrapment or lifting
  
• Too late: intercoat adhesion failure (peeling, delamination)
  

2K epoxies and PU systems often have both minimum and maximum recoat windows.

If the window is missed, sanding is normally required.

Moisture is a common cause of coating failure.

Wet concrete can cause:

• blistering
  
• whitening
  
• delamination
  
• loss of adhesion
  
• poor curing of 2K systems
  

If moisture is unavoidable, use a damp-tolerant primer like Prime DT.

Fresh concrete contains residual moisture and must cure for 28 days before most coatings.

Exceptions:

• moisture-tolerant primers
  
• damp-tolerant epoxies
  

But even then, moisture testing is recommended.

Power-floating creates a smooth, dense laitance layer that coatings cannot bond to.

Mechanical grinding or shot-blasting opens the surface.

If not removed → peeling and flaking will occur.

Top causes of failure across the industry:

1. Poor preparation (dust, laitance, contamination)
   
2. Moisture in the substrate
   
3. Incorrect mixing or ratio errors in 2K products
   
4. Applying in the wrong temperature range
   
5. Using the wrong primer or no primer
   
6. Applying too thick or thin
   
7. Traffic before full cure
   
8. Unknown existing coatings underneath
   

90% of coating failures come from preparation issues, not the product.

Viscosity is the thickness of a coating.

It changes with:

• temperature
  
• shear (mixing)
  
• solvent content
  
• pigmentation
  
• filler loading
  

Warm product = lower viscosity.

Cold product = thick, harder to apply.

For consistent results, store coatings indoors overnight before use.

General guidance:

• 1K Acrylic: 4–12 hours
  
• Epoxy (2K): 12–24 hours (within recoat window)
  
• PU: 6–16 hours
  
• Solvent-based line marking: often recoatable in minutes
  

Always check the TDS — conditions matter.

Never.

Each Part A and Part B are chemically designed for each other.

Mismatching systems causes:

• incorrect curing
  
• extreme brittleness
  
• soft patches
  
• poor chemical resistance
  
• unpredictable reaction heat
  

The ratio, resin type, hardener type and reactive diluents all vary by manufacturer.

Signs a primer is needed:

• porous, dusty or chalky surface
  
• power-floated concrete
  
• oil contamination
  
• moisture present
  
• very old or weak concrete
  
• high-build coatings planned
  

Primers improve adhesion, reduce product consumption and even the finish.

Common causes:

• highly porous areas soaking up film
  
• uneven prep
  
• uneven film thickness
  
• application in low temperatures
  
• moisture exposure during cure
  
• contamination or oil patches
  
• roller shedding or poor mixing
  

Many of these are resolved by priming properly.

Yes — gently.

Avoid:

• direct heat on the coating
  
• gas heaters (introduce moisture)
  
• overheating
  

Use dry, indirect warm air; never blast heat directly at the floor.

Water-Based:

• lower odour
  
• often more flexible
  
• slower curing in cold
  
• easier cleanup
  
• excellent for occupied buildings
  
• typically less chemical resistant (unless epoxy)
  

Solvent-Based:

• higher adhesion to aged surfaces
  
• faster drying in cold
  
• stronger flow-out
  
• better chemical & abrasion resistance
  

Modern water-based epoxies (like EpoxyMark and Hygienic Epoxy) rival many solvent-based systems.

Signs of full cure:

• uniform gloss
  
• hardness when pressed with a fingernail
  
• no imprinting under light pressure
  
• chemical odour significantly reduced
  
• slight warming has stopped
  

Full cure takes longer than people expect — 3–7 days usually.

Pigment lots, resin changes and manufacturing conditions can cause slight variation.

To avoid shade differences:

• purchase enough product from one batch
  
• maintain consistent film thickness
  
• avoid applying one coat from an old batch and the next from a new batch
  

We manufacture in-house, which gives you superior batch consistency versus toll-made products.

Yes — especially in warm weather or when left in the mixing pot.

To reduce heat:

• mix smaller quantities
  
• pour out onto the floor immediately
  
• never leave a mixed epoxy in the bucket
  

Exotherm accelerates gelling and reduces pot life.