Cleaning & Degreasing Hub

No, absolutely not. This is a leading cause of floor paint failure. Household cleaners contain additives like lanolin, scents, and salts that leave an invisible, greasy film on the concrete. This film acts as a "bond breaker," stopping your new coating from sticking. You must use an industrial-grade, emulsifying degreaser designed specifically for concrete preparation.

A floor can look clean but still be coated in invisible oil or silicone. You must perform the "Water Break Test." Pour a small amount of water onto various spots on the floor. If the water beads up and sits on top (like on a waxed car), contamination is still present. If the water immediately spreads out flat and darkens the concrete, the surface is chemically clean and ready for the next prep stage.

A quick surface scrub will not work on deep stains. You need to use the "dwell time" method. Apply a strong industrial degreaser liberally to the stain and let it soak for 20-30 minutes—do not let it dry out. Keep agitating it with a stiff broom. This draws the deep oil up into a suspension, which must then be wet-vacuumed away before it dries back into the pores. Heavily contaminated floors may require multiple treatments.

No. Acid Etching is for removing "laitance" (weak cement paste) and creating texture; it is not a cleaner. If you apply acid to a greasy floor, you will simply trap the grease in the concrete and neutralize the acid before it can do its job. You must always thoroughly clean and degrease the floor before any acid etching takes place.

Yes. Leaving dried cleaner residue on the floor is just as bad as leaving the original dirt. The residue can react with your new coating and cause adhesion failure. You must rinse the floor with fresh water until the run-off is completely clear and free of foam bubbles. A wet-and-dry vacuum is highly recommended for removing the rinse water effectively.

Pressure washing only removes the visible surface growth. It leaves behind microscopic spores deep in the texture of the render or brickwork. Unless these spores are killed, the regrowth will return rapidly. To ensure long-term results, you must apply a professional Fungicidal Wash or biocidal treatment after cleaning to sterilize the surface.

Older metal cladding often suffers from UV degradation, leading to "chalking"—a white, powdery residue on the surface. If you paint over this chalk, the paint will eventually peel off with the powder. The cladding must be thoroughly scrubbed with an industrial detergent or cladding cleaner until no white residue comes off on your hand when rubbed dry.

We generally advise against aggressive pressure washing on tiled roofs. High pressure can blast water underneath the tiles, damage mortar bedding, and strip the protective granular surface off concrete tiles, reducing their lifespan. The safest method is usually manual scraping of heavy moss followed by a "soft wash" biocide treatment.

Aggressive pressure washing can scar or "blow" the face of soft monocouche renders. It is recommended to use a "Soft Wash" technique—applying specialized cleaning chemicals at low pressure to break down dirt and organic growth, rather than relying on brute force water pressure.

A solvent wipe is the final preparation step immediately before coating non-porous surfaces like metal, some hard plastics, or existing epoxy. It involves wiping the surface with a clean, lint-free rag dampened with a solvent like Xylene. This removes invisible moisture, surface dust, and natural oils from fingerprints that settle just before application, ensuring a perfect chemical bond.

No. White Spirit is an oily, slow-drying petroleum distillate. If used as a final wipe, it leaves a greasy residue that will prevent high-performance 2-pack coatings from bonding correctly. Always use virgin Xylene or Standard Cellulose Thinners, as these evaporate completely cleanly without leaving a residue.

Yes. Strong industrial solvents will attack, melt, or dull many types of plastics, including UPVC and perspex. When using solvents to clean cladding or floors nearby, you must thoroughly mask off and protect any plastic fixtures, gutters, or window frames to prevent irreversible damage.

No. cheap "Gun Wash" is dirty, recycled solvent intended only for cleaning spray guns and tools after use. It often contains contaminants, oil, and dissolved paint residue from previous uses. Using this on your floor or wall will introduce new contaminants and ruin your finish. Only use virgin (fresh) solvents for surface preparation.